You may have to patch damaged sections of glassfibre. With the original gearlever hole it's easier to patch it and cut a new hole rather than try to extend the old hole to its new (convenient) position.

To cut the new hole for the gearlever and hanbrake (the old handbrake was under the dash), measure back from the body mounting holes in the front of the tranmission tunnel. Centre of gearlever hole should be 160mm back from mounts.

The gearlever hole can be cut out with a pad saw, but a hole cutter in an electric drill is easier. It doesn't have to be very big (40mm to 70mm), because the pivot of the gearlever is so close to the tunnel.

The handbrake's front edge should be 350mm back from the body mounts. the cut-out is 280mm long and 80mm wide, made centrally on the tunnel. Cut a hole in each corner then saw or grind the edges out.

Exterior bodywork: if the paint or gelcoat is damaged, it needs to be stripped. Gently use a hot air gun until the surface is softening, then carefully scrape off with a scraper or a sharp chisel.

You can't scrape off all the paint, so once you've got the bulk of it off, use a DA sander to finish off. This is  slow, dusty, tedious work but it's crucial. It's also crucial that you wear a mask.

Make repairs in the same way as for patching; you graft in complete new body sections like that. Finishing is done with plastic body filler. Apply in thin, even layers.

Don't use the DA sander to rub down the filler do it by hand, using a sanding block and wet and dry paper. Don't rub down with your hands instead of a block - your finger marks will show.

The only exception to the sanding block rule is tricky with contours (to form them or to rub down). Then use wet and dry wrapped around your fingers, but keep your fingers together and flat.