Now fit the Spyder alternator brackets, engine mounts and new inlet manifold, and the bracket for the fuel pressure regulator to the inlet manifold's rearmost lower stud. Bolt on the regulator.

The Zetec's twin-bypass water system is both complicated and bulky. It will fit with a bit of grinding but it's better to put in an aftermarket water rail, like this raceline item. Brass union is a Spyder part - fit it with plumbers PTFE tape.

The thermostat housing bolts on to the front end of the raceline water rail. The original Zetec thermostat is on the back of the engine, which is tricky for the inline fitment of the Elan conversion.

Some Zetec engines have a lug on the front lower edge of the sump, which fouls the front chassis tube in the Elan. Grind it off with an angle grinder so the front is flush. Block all engine inlets first and wear a mask.

To match the fwd clutch to the rwd box an extended release bearing is used. This is also your chance to update the operating arm pivot point to a new-style plastic item, to reduce noise.

Spyder's gearlever fits directly onto the shift operating shaft. Adjust rose joints until lever is vertical when in neutral. Check gears, then fit 90 degree speedo drive from Elan box and new mounts.

Bolt the engine backplate on if it's not already there, then mate the box to the engine. Put the box into gear and turn the output shaft slightly until the input shaft slots into the clutch plate.

Finally, bolt on the new engine mounts, feed in the propshaft and bolt it to the differential. Then the fuel pipes (supplied) need to be pushed into the holes in the top edge of the chassis.

The fuel pipe unions fit flush with the end of the rear chassis section. But at the front the pipes should extend 50mm behind the upper cross member, and bend to run along the chassis legs.