RESTORATION LOTUS PLUS 2 ZETEC CONVERSION
Fitting The Engine and Gearbox
The modern Ford Zetec engine needs a few tweaks before it can be fitted into the Elan's new chassis. David Lillywhite shows how to do the job.
PART FOUR
This is what we've been waiting for, the centrepiece of the Elan build-up. This is where we fit the modern Ford Zetec engine. In what could be your fourth weekend's work on the project, you could end up with a rolling chassis complete with fully built-up and ready-to-run engine, transmission, suspension and brakes.
That's quite an achievement. While you're doing all that, you could be having the body resprayed (more on that in the next issue), depending on how much work you're doing yourself and how much is being done professionally. There's certainly no need to farm out the mechanical work, though. As you'll see, it's all quite straight forward, once you know how.
Spyder is going the whole hog on this car and using a brand new Zetec engine. That costs £1200 from Ford, and ensures absolute reliability (the engine shown has old cam covers on, while the new ones are being stove-enamelled bright red). But then the Zetec does'nt go wrong or wear out anyway and you could pick one up from a breakers yard for £400-500. Or, if you found one being split from a private owner's write off, you could end up paying less than £250.
Spyder never worries about buying brand new transmission parts, though, because they're even tougher than the engines. The MT75 five speed box can usually be found in late Sierras, for £100. Spyder has them reconditioned for between £250 and £350, depending on what needs doing. The differential should be fine, straight out of the breakers yard. Expect to pay about £150 for that but remember to get the inner driveshaft CV joints with it. Otherwise, Spyder can supply you with used gearbox, diff, hubs and brake calipers for £450.
There are a few changes that have to be made to the engine and gearbox to ensure they mate together (they're front-wheel-drive and rear-wheel-drive respectively) and fit into the Spyder chassis. But, as you'll see, they're easy tweaks. Where anyone considering this conversion will really benefit from these articles is in the tips from Spyder's Andy Widnall, already an old hand at the Elan Zetec conversions. He's found that, once the engine's in the chassis, it's best to build up the throttle bodies on the engine, connect all hoses, and then remove the bodies as an assembly and sit them on top of the engine to give room for the body to be lowered down onto the chassis. It's easier than trying to build the bodies on the bench or in the engine bay. Then there a little tips, like cutting, not sawing the fuel hoses, so no rubber dust can bloke the injectors. Or making sure all hose clips face downwards so they're still accesible once the body's on. It might seem trivial now but it won't when you're trying to change something a year down the line. So, we aim to please, but nothing can be as pleasing as seeing this chassis built up so quickly. You'll see that this is the stage at which expenditure builds up quickly too. You can keep it down by searching out a cheap engine and risking fitting the gearbox without having it reconditioned too. And you could go for side draught carburettors instead of fuel injection throttle bodies - that will save you £400 initially, but it's much cheaper having the injection set up on a rolling road than it is to re-jet the carbs. And the injection will give you 35 mpg and smooth glitch free, reliable performance; the carbs will need regular fettling, give 25 mpg and do a fair amount of coughing and spluttering. It's up to you but we chose throttle bodies for this car.
In the next issue, we'll be showing you how to repair the body.
PRACTICAL CLASSICS MAY 2003