Now the hub carrier can be fitted in between the ball joints. The balljoints may turn as you try to do up their nuts, so use a large G-clamp to squeeze top and bottom balljoints together, then do up the nuts

Fit brake discs onto hubs, then the caliper frames. Smear copper grease on the back of brake pads, fit them into caliper (one with clip goes into the piston) and bolt the calipers onto the frames. A spring clip holds the lot together.

Spyder uses braided flexible brake hoses for best braking. Braided hoses can be awkward to fit as they twist when they're done up - Spyder now supplies hoses with separate adaptors, which are fitted first.

If you followed part two's instructions you'll have undone the steering rack extension pieces from the original rack. Clean them up (Spyder stove enamels them) and screw them onto the new (modern Rover) steering rack.

Chassis has steering rack mounting shims, wired to either side of the rack mounting platform. Don't mix them up - fitting the rack at the correct height is crucial to handling. Fit rack with these shims.

It's easiest to fit  the diff now, if you can. With help, turn the chassis upside-down. Undo these two bars across the rear end. Just undo each bolt at one end and swing them out of the way.

Fit the Spyder mounts onto the diff, using bolts at the front and one long shaft at the rear end. Fit the rubbers into chassis mounts and wiggle the diff into place. Protect the chassis with a cloth.

The rear end of the new differential hangs in this Ford diff mount, placed correctly by using an alloy spacer, supplied by Spyder. Once this is fitted the chassis can be turned the right way up again.

Bolt the lower rear wishbones into place, using copper grease onto he spindles. Then fit the extra Spyder top wishbones (shown here). These improve the rear suspension location, originally a weak point.