There are very few parts that need to be used from the old chassis, but the brake line splitters do need to be rescued (it saves a bit of cash). The one with the brake light switch incorporated (shown here) attaches to the front offside chassis leg, in the engine bay.

New brake lines are supplied. Fit the two front lines from the splitter to either front corner. The main front to rear line runs inside the chassis, under the first crosstube, inside the main section and then around the handbrake cable mounts at the rear.

At the back end of the new chassis, the other splitter from the original chassis has to be fitted. Here you can see how the main line comes in, with the two rear lines heading off for the (yet to be fitted) rear hoses. You'll find brackets on either side for where they join.

The upper front wishbones come in two parts per side, and sandwich the upper balljoint, a Triumph part, as used originally on the Elan. They're available new, to a decent quality. Use copper grease on wishbone spindles.

The lower balljoint is a modern part, replacing the old Triumph Herald - family trunnion joint. The lower wishbone again sandwich the balljoint. Use two nuts locked together on the front of the spindles, nylocs on the rear ends.

Fit the new front struts, which come ready built, assuming you've gone for the modern coilover unit (Spax adjustables). Make sure the height setting is on minium at this stage - a C-spanner is used to wind them down

The front wheel bearings have to be assembled into the hub carriers. First tap the outer into the carrier (as here), then grease the bearing with high melting point grease. Work the grease right in, then wipe off excess. Make sure the parts go dead straight.

8

Turn the carrier over and fit the bearing, then tap in the top collar section of the assembly. A curious quirk of this set-up is that the bearings feel unusually tight until the car has been used. Don't worry, it's just the grease slowing things down.

Hold the hub in a vice, and fit the hub carrier over the top, tapping the bearings through using a tube or socket that's the same diameter as the outer race of the bearing. Fit the washer and 41 mm nut, then do up to 310 - 350 Nm torque. That's seriously tight.